March 2024
Greetings from a hot and dry Tekanda Lodge. We haven't had any proper rain since the first week of January. Our embryonic pepper and cinnamon empire is in danger of turning to dust. When the guests aren't around, I may be seen in the dusk-light dancing half-naked with peacock feathers in my hair imploring Mother Earth to grant us a good soaking. Which leads me swiftly on to the main topic of this month's newsletter - an attempt to address the enduring and complex question: 'When is the best time to visit?' We have created below what we think is a pretty creative visual guide but it comes with some important guide notes and caveats.
Tekanda's Non-scientific Seasonal Guide
(based upon our aggregated 'on the ground' experience of the last few years at Tekanda Lodge)
On the weather:
* Whether wet or dry - all year around it is tropically warm.
*Even in the wetter months, traditionally the mornings tend to be dry with the rain falling in the afternoon/evenings. Sustained rainfall is rare, and usually the result of a significant weather system sitting offshore and affecting the whole country and beyond.
*The north east of Sri Lanka has the inverse weather conditions to the south west (where we are). You can always plan a trip which takes in both seasonal zones and give yourself the best chance of good weather in one of them.
*In line with the rest of the world, weather patterns in Sri Lanka are changing significantly from established patterns.
On the Surf:
*There is always somewhere to surf on the south coast no matter what time of year you visit.
*The range of surfing options does dramatically drop off between June and October. On the whole, only Weligama Bay offers reliable options at this time. The water quality can be variable if there has been heavy rainfall inland.
* In the main surf season between October and May, all the reef breaks along the coast are working and the water is generally crystal clear.
The hugely successful Leap Midlife Adventure (middle picture) and LSA Fit (bottom two pictures) weeks
On the Vibe
* Ahangama's emergence as the chic cafe-culture centre of Sri Lanka means more and more restaurants and cafes are open all year round.
On the Price
*It's hard to overstate the economic bonus of heading to the southern province between May and November. We, in line with all other hotels in the region, discount by up to 50% from our peak season.
It is difficult to believe we are already seven months into our inaugural year at Tekanda Lodge. Our universally wonderful guests have ranged from solo travellers looking for a little time to think, to our 10 'midlifer ladies' looking for challenge and adventure. We have had young honeymooners and golden wedding anniversaries, old friends and new friends, family reunions and family holidays. We've hosted fitness, surf and yoga retreats and Tekanda Foundation volunteers and visitors; all in all, hundreds of special tropical days and nights during which Tekanda Lodge has hummed with happy sounds.
Peak weeks for the year ahead are already starting to be booked up, so if you are considering an exclusive use holiday December to March, it is best to register your interest now. Remember for most of the year you can book on a per room per night basis. We are delighted that following this year's successes, LSA Fit and the Leap Midlife Adventure are returning next year. Please contact Lucinda (LSA Fit) or Milly (The Leap) for further details.
As always, if you would like some general advice about itineraries or schedules, do not hesitate to get in contact
Wishing you all the best,
Richard and Charlie
January 2024
Dear Friends and Family,
A very happy new year to you all! Apologies for skipping last month's missive. We have discovered that it is so busy in December and January that anything outside of running the hotel and hosting our delightful guests seems to go out of the window.
I think I promised in the last newsletter that I would do an overview of Sri Lankan weather patterns. Well, having started I soon realised that it essentially requires a Masters in Tropical Metereology, and therefore remains work in progress. So here is a quick precis relevant for the next few months:
Despite December and January being peak season, all things considered, February, March and April are, in our humble opinion, the three absolute gems. The weather settles, the beaches clear and you rarely have to book at the restaurants. We are booked until the 4th February but we do have some good availability after that - visit our website https://www.tekandalodge.com for the availability calendar or email us direct if you are interested in coming to Tekanda Lodge.
A gentle debate......
For a married couple, a little past the first flush of our youth, Charlie and I tend to see eye to eye on most things. But there is one regular bone of contention guaranteed to get us snapping like a pair of Sri Lankan street dogs. When asked by guests, as we are on a daily basis, 'what is your favourite bar/restaurant'?, without hesitation I will always reply 'Ocean Palm!'* This will be challenged almost instantly by Charlie with a stream of incredulity, interspersed, I am sorry to report, with a fair few cuss words.
It is true, the proprietor of said establishment is, in contrast to the vast majority of his compatriots, somewhat of a trickster. If Chaminda* can over-charge, short-change, short-cut, free-load or under-deliver, he will. Save knocking me out with a King Coconut and taking my wallet - there is no other way I haven't been robbed by Chaminda. We always greet each other like old friends. There are hugs and twinkly-eyed smiles; aged Amma and Tata (mother and father) are dragged out to pay their respects to 'Mr Richard'; his children are cuffed around the ear until they spill out their stumbling English; but we both know the encounter will end in the same way it always does. Chaminda will be richer, I will be poorer, and Charlie will be slowly shaking her head in resignation at my child-like naivety.
'Ocean Palm' is built from driftwood on our stunning local beach. No part of it is safe. I have lost two guests down the makeshift staircase and one nearly electrocuted himself trying to switch on a fan. You can wait anything between 1 and 2 hours for food - rarely what you ordered and always quadruple the quantity asked to ensure the bill can be equally oversized. There is no wine, no cocktails, limited soft drinks and I am told the 'loo' is like the engine room of a sinking ship, in which you stand ankle deep in dirty black water sloshing from side to side.
But!.. But!... when you are sat at his makeshift tables, drenched in the warm rays of the setting sun and looking out an Indian Ocean turning crimson; and your cold Lion is gently bubbling in its ice crusted glass; and you are surrounded by smiling friends and family recounting the adventures of the day whilst watching the surfers carve the final waves - there is simply nowhere else in the world I would rather be.
*names changed to avoid testing Sri Lankan libel law!
Death by doughnut....
You may recall the legendary episode of the Vicar of Dibley when Dawn French attends three consecutive Christmas lunches on the same day. Well, Charlie and I have just done a Sri Lankan equivalent. Despite the formal Buddhist new year being in April, the Sinhalese celebrate the calendar new year with a custom in which a pot of milk is boiled on an open fire until it curdles and then flows over the edge signifying purity and good fortune for the year to come. So when we were kindly invited to three separate ceremonies on New Year's Day - we discussed the logistics and reckoned we could cover all three. We would begin early with our Estate ladies down at the tea shed, head to the village for the Tuk Tuk drivers mid morning, and finish off with a final milk boil before lunch at Gamatha Athak with the staff and some of the local attendees of the empowerment centre (https://www.tekandalodge.com/foundation).
We had been well briefed on the milk part, but what no one had mentioned was that this is followed by the unveiling of a vast selection of local fare and invited special guests are expected to avail themselves whilst everyone else watches! To make matters worse this isn't done buffet style. Rather, the designated host fills up a large plate from the mountains of heavy carb dishes whilst the individual person responsible for preparing each dish watches hawk-eyed until their offering is eaten.
It might have taken us nearly a week to digest the tonnage of kiri bath (milk rice), cinnamon cakes, fish rolls, sugar pancakes and a host of other dough-like creations, but we'll remember the joy and privilege of being part of these wonderful occasions for much longer.
We wish you all the best for 2024 and hope that we will have the chance to catch up with many of you in the not too distant future.
Richard and Charlie
October 2023
Greetings from a warm and sunny Sri Lanka!
Over the last two weeks we have enjoyed beautifully settled weather after a particularly wet start to the month. Our local beach at Kabalana (above) has been at its picture-perfect best and the two lovely families that were here over half-term have left suitably bronzed and relaxed!
'Safari' at Tekanda.....
It's official. The estate is home to a 30 strong marauding herd of Wal Ura (Wild Boar). We have been told this for some time but Charlie and I have never seen so much as a twirly tail disappearing into the Jungle. This all changed when we were recently awoken in the early hours by an extraordinary sound....
So, think that first rustle of leaves before an approaching squall or the rumble of a distant train - sounds that carry just enough impending menace to wake you up and heighten the senses. In a flash we were up and out of bed hanging over our elevated wooden deck, torch scanning the jungle below (well actually Charlie was, I thought the safest place was inside peering from behind the deck doors). The sound got louder and louder until suddenly, like a Sri Lankan remake of Dances with Wolves in that epic Buffalo scene, this seemingly endless mass of honking and grunting wild boar exploded out of the undergrowth and crashed passed underneath us. I only just restrained myself from doing the full Kevin Costner and racing down on my moped to the local village, horn-fingers and all - shouting 'Wal Ura! Wal Ura!!.
Gamata Athak is open!
We had a pretty joyous few days at the start of the month when we opened Gamata Athak our rural empowerment centre. We now have 475 students through the centre each week taking classes from Badminton to Computer Studies and English Conversation to 'Dress-making. Here are a few pictures of the opening ceremony and the first few weeks of daily life.
A few holiday tempters....
So there you are on the sofa watching Strictly. It's dark, wet and a bit miserable outside. The summer health drive went south with the swallows in late September, and the grip of winter looms. Because even the most optimistic can get a little bleak when the clocks go back, here are a few winter sun tempters at Tekanda Lodge.
Families
Last two available 'family' weeks this season (i.e School/Uni holidays):
Sunday February 11th - Sunday February 18th
Saturday March 23 - Saturday March 30th
If you are interested visit the Tekanda Lodge website for more details
OR
GAP Volunteering
In response to an ever growing number of enquiries about Gap Year volunteering options we have now developed an opportunity for volunteers wishing to get involved with the work of the Tekanda Foundation. We have our first volunteers arriving next week. If you are interested in learning more then have a look at our Foundation page where you can also download a Volunteer Brochure.
Please also feel free to contact me directly if you would like to discuss this in more detail.
OR
Short-stay per room per night
We still have lots of space in November which is the last month of the low season prices, but after that only:
3 rooms left 2nd week of January
3 rooms left last week of February
1 room left 1st week of March
If you are interested visit the Tekanda Lodge website for more details
OR
Upcoming Retreats
For those perhaps wanting to indulge yourself in a more structured week we have a few places left on some of our upcoming retreats:
Body and Soul with Lara Swan (24th November-2nd December 2023; 18th February - 25th February 2023)
A week entirely focussed on physical and mental rejuvenation. Days of massage, gentle yoga and sunset Indian Ocean swims and delicious, healthy food to fuel the body and the mind.
Soul and Surf (either 2nd December-9th December or 9th December to 16th December - or both)
Have you ever imagined yourself striding into a tropical 28c ocean, board tucked under your arm and then paddling out to the backline to join the beautiful people? Well this is where it starts! Learn to surf in the warm, idyllic water of Sri Lanka's south coast (no queuing for the car park Cornwall style or forcing yourself into a cold damp wetsuit twice a day). After your sun-drenched surf, return to the gentle arms of Tekanda Lodge for some well-earned rest, refuelling and pampering.
Midlifers Adventure Challenge (30th January - 4th February)
Think 'Eat, Pray, Love' vibes set in two stunning and contrasting locations in Sri Lanka. 2 phases, multiple experiences. Just the feel-good tonic required after January's hard yards. This is actually something a bit special and we have just two spots left.
Island Inspiration with Safiya Sideek (4th-11th February)
New! We have teamed up with super-talented Colombo artist Safiya Sideek to offer an art retreat at Tekanda. Safiya will be your guide as you journey through the unique colours, textures and culture of this island. Suitable for all levels from beginner to advanced.
For detailed information about any of these amazing retreats, visit our upcoming retreats page on the Tekanda Lodge website.
As always, do not hesitate to contact us to discuss either a visit to Tekanda Lodge or for some general pointers on a trip to Sri Lanka.
Our very best wishes,
Richard and Charlie
July-August 2023
Dear Friends and Family,
For those loyal enough to have skimmed a few of these monthly updates, you may remember reference to our 'other' project. This referred to our plans to establish a rural empowerment centre in our local village in partnership with the well-established and highly respected local charity, Foundation of Goodness. But it's probably worth sharing the conversation in June 2022 that spawned the idea:
Richard: 'So that was good timing. We've completed our tropical boutique hotel after four years of toil and Sri Lanka is now in economic and political meltdown and most of the western world have issued travel advisories'.
'And we have just resigned from our wonderful jobs at Marlborough so not only do we have no income, but without guests, we don't actually have anything to do when we get there.'
Charlie: 'Umm... so what are we going to do in Sri Lanka?'
Richard: 'Umm......... I don't know'.
Whilst Sri Lanka has swiftly emerged from its troubles and life at the Lodge is at full-tilt, the seed had been planted and from this has grown ‘Gamata Atak’.
Girls' Cricket Academy
In advance of the opening of Gamata Atak, the Tekanda Foundation opened a Girls’ Cricket Academy in Kathaluwa that now provides over 60 girls aged 7-16 from rural areas across the region an opportunity to play cricket on a regular basis. It is an enduring delight to see these girls arrive on foot, on the back of mopeds, hanging out of packed tuk tuks and on local buses in order to have the opportunity to access the game.
Come and join the fun
Many of our Tekanda Lodge guests have expressed a wish to help out at the empowerment centre or cricket academy as part of their holiday which we will be delighted to arrange if at all possible.
We are also offering an opportunity for longer-term stays at the 'volunteer' accomodation in the empowerment centre where, in return for a modest fee per night, volunteers will receive accommodation and board and the opportunity to help for half a day, 5 days a week at the centre or cricket academy. There will be an 'application' process for these spots to ensure we get the right volunteers coming for the right reasons but interested parties should email me for further details.
Tekanda Lodge
We continue to get an encouraging number of bookings for the main season where space is now getting somewhat scarce. There is, however, plenty of availability in the early part of the season September-December when we offer some very competitive rates and flights are cheapest. We have had lots of guests at this time of year and I don't think anyone has regretted coming in the quieter part of the season. If you want to investigate a trip over this time, please do contact me.
Condé Nast Traveller - Best hotels in Sri Lanka
https://www.cntraveller.com/gallery/sri-lanka-hotels
We confess we were very chuffed to be included in this, but also a little intimidated! However, we do believe that Tekanda has something a little bit special, which is beautifully articulated in this piece.
As always, Charlie and I are always available to discuss potential holidays (family or groups) or indeed volunteer opportunities and stays at Gamata Atak.
Best wishes,
Richard and Charlie